Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Route fixed, new passport, no visa

Eventually, I decided to avoid the Iran due to the impending elections and the uncertainty with regard to the Iran-Israel/USA conflict. These are the paper maps that cover my trip:

Nepal, Northeast India, Pakistan, West China, Kazakhstan, West Russia, the Baltic
But then almost everything that can go wrong went wrong so far:
It all started when I realized that my passport doesn't have enough blank pages for all the visa of the various countries I plan to ride through. That was shortly after my stay on Palawan, Philippines, just when I intended to start applying for visa. I was hoping there's the option to attach additional pages to the German passport. Unfortunately, this is not the case; you have to apply for a new one. The other option would have been to apply for a temporary one. The advantages are: cheaper and faster than a new one; disadvantage: only 9 pages. So I started calculating: Nepal, India, Pakistan, China, Kazakhstan, Russia; at least one page for each country's visa sticker. So only 2 left for their stamps. Some countries already state in their information regarding visa application that there must be at least 2 blank pages left. I definitely want to avoid any additional, unnecessary issues at boarders, because the process itself is quite troublesome and time consuming already. Thus, I decided to apply for a new passport; express & big (more pages). It took 3 weeks and cost around 200 €. Much more , of course, than getting it in Germany because they add charges like "Unzuständigkeitsgebühr". Well, that reduced the time for the visa hunt to 3 weeks.

Old, invalid passport (left) and new one (right),
German embassy in Singapore.

In addition, I had booked a flight to Saigon/Ho Chi Min City just about the same day, my new passport was supposed to arrive. If I were lucky, my new passport would have arrived just one day before my departure. Technically, I was lucky, but the German embassy in Singapore still relies on snail mail to inform you about the arrival of your new passport. Thus, I could only miss my flight and book another one to get my new passport or still use my old one. Due to the short amount of time left, I thought I should try to get at least one visa in Vietnam. Therefore, I picked up my passport on the next day and flew to Saigon two days later than scheduled. In Vietnam, however, I wasn't successful in applying for the Indian (processing time of 5 working days would have exceeded my stay) nor for the Chinese (they wanted to see a letter of invitation from the travel agency).
Back in Singapore I tried the High Commission of Pakistan next: "Where is your flight ticket?" "I'll travel overland." "Why do you want to go to Pakistan?" "Because I heard it's an interesting country and it's on the way back to Germany." "Where is your Indian and Chinese visa?" "Well, I'll get the Indian visa in Nepal and for the Chinese visa I'm still waiting for the documents from the travel agency." "OK, please have a seat in the waiting room, we will check your application." 10-15 min later: "Your application is OK, you just need a letter of invitation from a friend in Pakistan." (side note: I called them a couple of weeks ago and asked what documents I need to bring. I was told, a booking confirmation for the hotel is enough.) Luckily, the student body at NUS is quite divers so it didn't take long to find a Pakistani who is willing to do me a big favor. Her name is Gulmina and her father is ambassador of Pakistan - not it Singapore though - so she actually knows some of the people at the embassy. Therefore, I believe my second attempt beginning next week will have good chances to succeed.
Meanwhile, I received the documents from the Chinese  travel agency via email. Just in time before my flight to Bangkok (BKK), Thailand, where I have to organize the air freight of my motorbike. Chinese embassies offer the service of urgent visa application so that you can collect the visa on the next day (almost double the price than normal). I was of good cheer because I had photocopies of all documents and thought it would be easy going. Well, I was wrong. End of the story: I couldn't get the visa before my flight to BKK. They had doubts about the validity of the letter of invitation. The balance so far: 2 weeks of visa hunt, 4 embassies, no visa.
Now I'm in Thailand to organize the shipment of my motorbike to Kathmandu (KTM), Nepal. One problem is already put in place: my temporary import permit expired 2 months ago. I knew it will be the case and I consciously let it happen as I got the information that it is not a very big issue if you keep it below six months. There are different rumors about how much the fine is, but all figures were cheaper than 2 return flights SIN-BKK which would have been necessary for the extension of the permit. I'll go to extend/re-apply for it at the customs headquarter in Bangkok tomorrow; supported by Mr. Thira's logistics agency Excel Transport that I entitled to send my motorbike to KTM. Let's see how it goes…

Sunday, March 04, 2012

Which route to take for my journey home?

Two weeks ago Bianca & Florian, who I met in Ayutthaya during the Southeast Asia road trip, informed me about their plans driving through from Laos to Mongolia via China. They asked me if I want to join their convoy of 2 cars and 2 motorbikes. I welcomed this opportunity because I’ve got worried more and more about the sabre rattling between Iran and Israel/USA. Unfortunately, this option became very unattractive after getting to know more details about their itinerary. First, they are going to enter China mid of May. That means I will have a gap of two weeks after my final exam at NUS. I have a time frame of about 10-12 weeks for the whole journey only. Spending two of them in Southeast Asia would shorten the available time for countries I haven’t been before even more. Second, I was somehow assuming their route will lead towards North/Northwest, e.g., Xinjiang province, but in fact they will head to Beijing as you can see below. Almost two weeks of their itinerary (the whole trip is supposed to last 25 days) is dedicated to cities and attractions I visited during my stay in China in 2008/2009.

View Larger Map

At the time I came up with the idea of my journey home (more than a year ago), I tried to estimate the distance with Google Maps and thought it would be some 20-25k km. The route below shows what I had in mind initially:

View Larger Map

Meanwhile, I figured out it isn’t that far at all. So here’s my new favorite route:

View Larger Map

I still haven’t applied for any visa. Both these options have in common that they go through Iran. Actually, there aren’t that many other routes I can (theoretically) take.
Maybe this one?

View Larger Map
Ignore the part that leads through Afghanistan; it’s due to Google Maps routing. Yet, I’m not sure if there’s a way to go from north Pakistan directly to Tajikistan without transiting Afghanistan (would that be better than Iran?).

Or make my own way through China, which would not only be very expensive but also cause a logistic problem: Where should the tour guide who has to accompany me by law take his seat. There’s actually no space for a pillion on my motorbike.
I haven’t applied for any visa yet, because I really don’t know what to do. Try it via Iran and just hope for the best? Get visas for all other countries as well, in case Iran closes its borders? Find people to go with me through China via Xinjiang?

Any suggestions from your side? Let me know…

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

My Southeast Asia road trip is over, the review begins

I returned to Singapore safe & sound on Monday evening.
After my BMW Xchallenge was serviced at BKK Motorcylce last Friday, I parked it at my friend's place at Pattaya. It will be waiting for me there till I start my journey home end of April this year.
A selection (104) of the pictures I took during this trip can still be found at my public Google+ album. Well, there's still a lot more to come: During the next couple of weeks, I'll work on the post-processing of the videos I shot, mainly while riding my motorbike, and on the design & structure of this website. Stay tuned!

Wednesday, January 04, 2012

Back on the road after holidays in Sihanoukville

Happy New Year 2012!
I spent the last couple of days together with friends from Singapore at Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. At the latter we celebrated New Year's Eve together and had a relaxed boat trip the day after.
Yesterday, I hit the road again and rode all the way from Sihanoukville to Siem Reap. This is the last touristic destination of my road trip through Southeast Asia.
Unfortunately, I couldn't discover Cambodia as much as I wanted because my rear tire and my front brake pads are (almost) used up and thus, I had to reduce the mileage. All attempts finding a on/off-road tire in size 140/80-18 at Bangkok, Pattaya and Chonburi - thanks to Kitty, a Thai motorcyclist who helped me a lot - were in vain.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Half time résumé

Yepp, my road trip started 3 weeks ago and there are only 3 more left. The past 7000 km have been awesome - most of the time.

Positive
+ rode almost every day
+ had the opportunity to ride off-road
+ met friendly & interesting people - locals as well as other globetrotters
+ visited some well worth seeing sights/cities, e.g. Melaka, Chiang Mai (walking street on Sunday night)
+ had some awesome drives, e.g. Fraser's Hill

+ enjoyed cheap & delicious food
+ enjoyed good weather (sometimes even too hot): needed the GORE-TEX layer of my motorbike suit only 3 times so far

Negative
- stung by a huge (unidentified) insect while riding resulting in a badly swollen thigh for more than 3 days
- run over a dog
- crashed my motorbike in a slippery curve 2 days ago resulting in bent handlebar, bent gearshift lever, broken left hand guard and broken clutch lever
- front breaking pads & profile of rear tire almost used up; no spare ones with me and supply impossible/not found en-route yet
- too less time for all the things I want to do & see, e.g. edit & upload videos

The longer I think about it, the more I could add; mostly positive experiences. Well, I'll think of curiosities next time...